Send me a FREE trial issue Plus a FREE gift
Old-House Online » Old-House Tips, Restoration Stories, & More » Banishing Bats: Bat Deterrent & Removal

Banishing Bats: Bat Deterrent & Removal

Once bats move into a house, they rarely relocate, unless evicted using proper bat exclusion techniques. Here's what you need to know to make your building a bat-free zone. By Jodi Liss

    Small Brown Bat

    Small brown bats are one of three types of bat that commonly inhabit old houses.

    Old houses often come with features rarely found in new buildings-plaster walls, stained-glass windows, handcrafted woodwork, bats in the attic. Like many folks, I don’t mind bats in theory, but I will never forget the sight of my mother, in ski mask and pajamas, trying to remove a bat from our house with a fishing net.

    So when I found a dozen bats snoozing between the trim and a screen window of my Greek Revival house, I panicked and immediately phoned the local game commission. The licensed wildlife control specialist who responded explained that I didn’t have a bat infestation; the animals I saw were only migrating, taking shelter in my window for a couple of days on their way to someplace else. My disgust now turned to curiosity, so I set out to discover more about bats, how homeowners can tell when they have a bat problem, and how to get rid of it when they do. What I found just might keep you and your house from going batty.

    Why Old Houses Appeal to Bats

    Bat Infestation

    When bats become houseguests on a regular basis, it often signals an infestation that needs to be addressed.

    Bats are particularly attracted to old houses because they offer so many potential entry points. Chimneys, cracks or holes in the siding or soffits, louvered vents with loose screening, separating flashing, and just about any place where materials have shrunk, warped, or moved apart will invite bats to enter and make themselves at home. Bats need just a tiny crack-about 3/8 by 1-to enter a house, and can squeeze through holes the size of a quarter. That’s not much space.

    In truth, bats are important to a healthy environment. They are extremely good at keeping down the bug population, with a single bat consuming about 3,000 insects a night. However, some species of bats commonly roost in buildings today due to loss of natural habitat. According to Barbara French, a biologist with Bat Conservation International, Many people have a few bats in their attic and never know it. But a large colony of bats can become a noise or odor nuisance. And bats should not be allowed to enter interior living quarters.

    Three species of bats are most likely to find a warm old-house attic, wall, or soffit an irresistible roost: big brown bats (found in most of the US and Canada), little brown bats (Canada and northern US), and Mexican free-tailed bats (southern, western and southwestern US). A sizeable colony of big brown bats may total a dozen animals; for little brown bats it can mean several hundred. For Mexican free-tailed bats, a colony can number in the thousands. It is inhumane, usually illegal, and definitely impractical to kill a colony of bats roosting in one’s home. Eight species of bats are on the federal Endangered Species list, and each state keeps its own list as well. According to Susi Von Oettingen of the US Fish and Wildlife Service, even a bat species that’s plentiful across the entire continent can be protected in your state. Most endangered bats are not house dwellers, but it’s extremely difficult for homeowners to tell whether they have a colony of little brown bats, endangered Indiana bats, or, since they sometimes live together, a mix of the two.

    Keeping Bats at Bay

    Not everyone blessed with bats decides to get rid of them. After all, bats are rarely dangerous-only about one half of one percent of all bats have rabies. Suppose you don’t hate bats; you just don’t want to share your house with them. In that case, before evicting them, you might consider putting up a bat house or two at some corner of your property. That way, when the bats are unable to get back into your house, they’ll have the bat house as an option. The bats will have their house, you’ll have yours, and you can be neighbors. Think of all the bugs they’ll eat!

    Basic bat houses can blend into any surroundings.

    Basic bat houses can blend into any surroundings.

    Bat Houses

    One of the consequences of a successful bat eviction is that all those of displaced bats—the ones once sheltered in your rafters—will need a new place to live. Installing a bat box on your property makes it easy for them to find one. Bat boxes can come in many shapes and sizes, but all have one thing in common: They are designed to provide cozy quarters for a colony of bats. From the outside, a bat house often looks like a boxy birdhouse on steroids—with one difference, entrance holes are at the bottom. Nonetheless, they can be adorned with clever detailing—we even discovered a bat box with Folk Victorian styling.

    Inside, all feature several crevices so bats can roost in layers. Installing a bat box in the corner of your yard gives newly excluded critters a place to go, while keeping them close enough to provide major insect control on your property. With a single bat chomping down about 3,000 bugs a night, that’s a lot of pest protection for your al fresco dining. —Demetra Aposporos

    However, if you decide you just can’t live with bats, first forget the advertisements for ultrasonic deterrent devices, mothballs, or aerosol sprays; they do not work long-term. Each of the five bat experts I spoke with told me that the only way to get rid of bats is to evict them from your home, a process usually called exclusion and often within the skills of a layperson as well as a professional. It involves covering the openings the bats use to enter with netting or tubes. The bats can drop down and fly out, but are unable to crawl back in again.

    Before beginning, though, homeowners must accept that bat exclusion can be a big job, particularly if you have a fairly dilapidated home, because there are so many cracks the bats can enter. However, if your house is structurally sound, and has only one or two bat entry points, it’s a pretty simple process to do yourself, adds Barbara French.

    It’s best to plan bat exclusion in late summer or early spring because come mid-May, female bats begin giving birth to pups that cannot fly for several weeks. If you start eviction too early in the summer, you may be left with orphaned baby bats in your home, which couldn’t survive. In much of the country, house bats migrate in the fall to hibernate in mines and deep caves. If your bats have left for their winter quarters and you know where they are coming in, late fall is an excellent time to seal up the all exterior entry points and clean out the droppings. Not all bats migrate, however, especially in the Southeast. And sometimes, they will hibernate in the house itself. You cannot evict the bats in the winter if they are still present, because they will not be able fly out while still in hibernation.

    To begin, you need to determine where the bats are getting in. Examine your house’s exterior in daylight, identifying any cracks or holes, then sit outside on a balmy, clear summer evening and stare at those spots, looking for bat activity. Be sure to watch each side of your house, since bats often have more than one entry point. Also, the entry points may have somewhat greasy brown marks around them comprised of a mix of urine, feces, and body oils. Professionals often look for these bat tracks or signs to help identify entry points.

    To see bat exclusion in practice, I decided to accompany Brian Reichman, a licensed Pennsylvania wildlife control specialist, on one of his projects. Each state has a wildlife or conservation department that can offer advice on how to find a licensed wildlife removal specialist. (This is not an exterminator; bats’ endangered status makes it illegal for exterminators to touch them). We met at the home of the late Clarence James in Hawley, Pennsylvania. Clarence was the township historian and local square dance caller who had recently died at the age of 103. His son, Don, recalled how the house was known to harbor bats for at least 50 years, but Clarence didn’t care. He had also not done any major repair work on the house for decades, so the colony had swelled to more than 400 little brown bats.

    When I arrived at the property, beneath part of the cornice I could see an exclusionary device, a flap of nylon netting attached to the building over a bat entry point. Excluders should be attached securely along their top and three quarters of the way down their sides with duct tape or staples, allow the netting to hang somewhat loosely and extend about 2 feet below the bat access point. Placed over a bat entry point, such devices act as a one-way door. The bats crawl down and out the bottom of the netting to fly away, but when they return they fly straight to the opening and can’t figure out how to get back in.

    DIY Exclusion
    Exclusionary devices are easy to make using nylon window screen with a mesh of 1/6 or smaller. Another option Barbara French recommends is to cover the openings with cleaned-out caulking tubes—ends cut off and pointed downwards. Bats can drop down and out through the tubes, but can’t climb back up the smooth surface. These excluders fit nicely into the curves on tile roofs.

    In order to be effective, excluders must be placed over each bat entry point and left in place for at least a week, at which point the bats have given up trying to get back in, moving to a new home. Because the devices on Clarence James’ house had been up for more than a week, Brian was in the process of sealing all holes, cracks, and crevices with caulk or metal mesh to prevent their return. I asked him where the bats had gone. Probably to the neighbors, Brian shot back cheerfully. Once a house bat, always a house bat!

    Cleaning Critter Litter

    When the bats are gone, it’s time to clean up their mess. Bats have a keen sense of smell, and can sniff out the hint of a prior roosting spot from miles away, so all droppings must be carefully removed. Bat manure, or guano, while apparently an excellent fertilizer, can contain a fungus called Histoplasma capsulatum.

    Proper precautions are necessary when cleaning guano. This crew wears suits and masks, and uses a HEPA vacuum.

    Proper precautions are necessary when cleaning guano. This crew wears suits and masks, and uses a HEPA vacuum.

    Inhaling the fungal spores can sometimes cause a respiratory infection in humans, so proper precautions are necessary for any cleanup. I donned some old clothes and a mask that Brian gave me with a filter capable of filtering out particles as small as 2 microns in diameter (the size of small fungal spores) and went upstairs. Heavy work gloves are also recommended. The smell was overpowering, even through the mask. Brian’s wife, Belinda, assisted him, and she confessed, “The first time I did this, I told him, ‘I must really love you.”

    Because this house had hundreds of bats living there for decades, it was a particularly big job that required a lot of cleanup. First Brian and Belinda tore off the dilapidated interior walls and ceiling, stained and smelling of bat urine, in order to expose the beams and supports. Then they vacuumed up the guano on the floor, walls, beams and even the ceiling-anywhere the bats had left their mark— using a professional HEPA utility vacuum. It’s a good idea to mist the guano with water first to help prevent the dust from getting into the air.

    Finally, Brian sealed the windows, shut the door, sprayed the room with a commercial odor eliminator and antibacterial, and closed the room off for several hours until the spray dried. If you have a fairly small and accessible space, an alternative is to scrub all surfaces with a solution of 1 cup of bleach per gallon of water. It’s important to clean diligently and make sure all openings have been sealed, because any remaining odor will tell bats the house is a great hotel, and they will move right back in. With the bats out, access points sealed, and the place scrubbed, Brian’s work was done and the problem solved. It’s up to homeowners to rebuild the walls and ceilings.

    Suppose you don’t hate bats; you just don’t want to share your house with them. In that case, before evicting them, you might consider putting up a bat house or two at some corner of your property. That way, when the bats are unable to get back into your house, they’ll have the bat house as an option. The bats will have their house, you’ll have yours, and you can be neighbors. Think of all the bugs they’ll eat!

    Jodi Liss writes about rural Pennsylvania life from her old house in Wayne County. For more on bat exclusion, visit

    Published in: Old-House Journal January/February 2008


    Jon June 18, 2012 at 10:56 pm

    Thank you so much! great article! I will let you know how it goes. I have bats! :)

    bob runci August 23, 2012 at 8:13 am

    i have a single bat living outside of my home but under a roof molding of my house. i enjoy having him, her, there and have spotted him a couple of times. i would like to know how to build a proper bat house and where it should be placed. i live in mass. south of boston. any info you can supply would be appreciated. thanks , bob.

    Marsha Engelken December 22, 2012 at 9:03 am

    We have bats in an old building we must tear down. They are hibernating. Can we get help to move them? I’ve read that they can’t fly away when in hibernation. Will they all just die when the building is razed as I don’t know where they could go from there. Please be in touch with us. Thank you.

    Gail April 5, 2013 at 4:44 pm

    I hope you can advise: I have inherited a fairly new log home, which has been empty for two years and has been infested with bats. What is the best way to remove them from a log home. I have had two companies come out, one decided he would rather not handle the job, and the other seems willing. However, because it is a log home I am worried that this will be a problem. He wants to spray foam around the window areas and areas where there is an entrance way, however, the second company said he would advise trying to get someone who did not want to use that spray, since it is yellow and might be seeable. i would really appreciate some help, I have no idea how to take care of a log home and want it to be right for new owners.

    Janet Lovett April 7, 2013 at 12:42 pm

    We have discovered a colony of bats in our new home. Apparently they moved in before we did! We have been in the house for three weeks. We first noticed the bat droppings below where their entrance was. I searched the attic and did not find any trace of bats or guano. So we sat out and watched the area above the droppings and saw them coming out of the five small ventilation holes in the brick. There is a space between the brick and the osb board and this is where they are rousting. The holes one the inside of the osb are covered with screen so they can not get into the attic. My concern is that all the bats urine and guano is falling down between the wall and brick layer and will be impossible to clean out without tearing up our new home.
    Is it okay to leave that stuff there? The bats have not been here long. We plan to build some bats houses before we begin the process of ridding our home of bats. I can’t believe how expensive it is to have someone come out and do it for you! I hope we are successful in getting them out of our house. However, I’d love for them to hang around in their out home and continue eating the mosquitoes! Any advice if much appreciated!
    Robert and Janet in Georgia

    Dawn April 29, 2013 at 2:07 pm

    We had bats in our home, and had some one come out last fall to get them out. We found out in January the bats were still here. Being in a cold area, we had a heater on in our upstairs hallway. All was fine until we saw one at 2 A.M. in our bedroom one night. Since then we have all had rabies shots, I was scratched, and not knowing if any more would end up coming in the house, my husband and daughter also got the shots. Also since this, we found out our home owners insurance covered the most recent bat removal and clean up. We have our deductible, but after that, they are covering the rest of this. I was not sure if this was covered, but because bats are not considered a rodent like mice, they can not be taken care of by companies like Orkin. They need professional bat people. Be ware on these too, the first ones obviously didn’t take care of them for us.


    Joe May 23, 2013 at 10:01 pm

    Only consider humane methods for bat control. Bats are federally protected species and some are considered endangered. Poison free methods are the only methods to use when extracting bats. For log cabins or larger homes bat exclusions require extensive caulking and preventative maintenance to get rid of the bats and keep them out. Typically pest control companies are not experts in the bat removal service. It is recommended you hire bat removal specialists like a nuisance wildlife control company.

    John Sanders August 14, 2013 at 4:52 pm

    I would like to move a colony of bats again on my property. I have done this 2 times & they don’t like my bat house built by specs about 25 ft. high on a pole .It is supposed to hold 100 bats.I’m having another built ‘brown’ the other is ‘black’.Is there such a thing as a pheromones for bats ?

    Proper Termite Barrier Services by Bob Gunn in Brisbane September 11, 2013 at 7:20 am

    Bats conjure images of Dracula-themed movies; they are creepy to me. I am so glad I live in a city where I won’t not notice if bats are actually flying around my neighbourhood.

    Sharon McCormick December 31, 2013 at 11:42 am

    Do you know how I can get in touch with Brian? Here it is December and I had a bat flying around. Think I might have a colony behind a wall. He was here this past summer and we couldn’t find any then, but his phone is disconnected.
    Thanks for any help you can give me.

    Catherine Connelly May 15, 2014 at 1:56 am

    I live in a log cabin. Heard some noise thought it was birds. Discovered it was bats. The bats seemed to get in behind some half logs that led to the kitchen wall that was remodeled with tongue and groove. Grandson used some spray and they flew out we thought they all flew out. We were told when it get’s dark they will fly out but come back in the morning. That’s not true at least with these bats it wasn’t. He sprayed again and more flew out about 20 altogether. He blocked where he saw them exit but I am afraid they will be back and find another way in going to have the cabin chinked. Was looking for some kind of spray to spray and keep them out.

    Doreen Milo June 5, 2014 at 8:40 pm

    I have had bats in my house for fourteen years running. We have had one expert after the other come in and seal every crack hole and whatever else looked even slightly suspect. NOTHING and NOONE has helped. Last night a bat flew so clost to my head that I woke up because it’s wing was hitting my head. The bat specialist that we paid a substantial amount of money. Came back for the fourth time. But this time said that he was stumped and did not have another idea of how they were getting in and that there was nothing else he could do! I am ablsolutly desperate can anyone put me in contact with someone that could help me

    Helen Wagner July 9, 2014 at 1:43 am

    Looking up info on how to get a bat out of my house and foud this article ..noticed you are close ( I live in Lackawaxen) …I
    need help.The storm blew a bat into my house …it came in my back door and pretty much slid across my floor I went to get a towel to try and scoop it up but when I looked it was gone. I am guessing it must have went under my kitchen counter or some where dark to hide…Ihave not seen or heard it flying . Iopened my door and turned on the outside light like some sites suggest but I am concerned it may not be able to get back up and fly out ..any advise is apreciated

    Charles Parker July 14, 2014 at 10:38 am

    I wrote and published a free DIY Bat removal handbook if anyone is interested you can google those exact terms and it usually comes up first page or visit my website, its actually listed on the bat removal page. It should help you figure out what to look for if you have bats outside or inside the home. Again it is a free, downloadable PDF

    Brandy Anderson August 1, 2014 at 11:23 pm

    My husband and I bought a home built in the late 1800′s. Last year we had our roof replaced and one spot on the roof next to s dormer didn’t get sealed well. We have had 5 bats in our living areas within the last two weeks. I have studied up on bats, and we have someone coming to install a n exclusion device. I am concerned that they don’t have enough/the right experience to evict them all for good. About 100 bats that flew out of the roof at dusk. They couldn’t go far into the attic because of the old roof location, but we also cannot get to the area to clean it. I am not sure what to do and we dont have the money to pay $1000 to solve this issue. Did I mention that I also found out that I am terrified of bats and in my own home? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
    -batphobic in SE Iowa

    Barbara April 13, 2015 at 10:11 pm

    Like many other folks, I have bats in the folds of my patio umbrella. I keep the umbrella secured with a rubber cord so the wind won’t get up under it and carry it to the next state. I want to replace the old umbrella and put out a new one. Will my little mosquito eaters leave or just come to the new umbrella? I bought a ‘bat house’ but do not have a location I can put it up except the side of my single story home by the patio. The only things living in that ‘bat house’ are little frogs and little lizards that we have plenty of here in the south. Thanks for any help. I can change the umbrella at night, while they are out I believe. Am I correct about the timing? Thanks so much~

    Wilbur April 29, 2015 at 5:20 pm

    The easily transportable wireless reciprocatory saws are less definitely
    effective but they are a great deal easier to handle, cost less, and additionally are simple to move.

    Chris September 20, 2015 at 9:05 pm

    Charles Parker mentioned his website earlier, and his DIY information is outstanding. I work for a company that provides professional bat removal and we use many of the techniques he recommends. I encourage everyone to practice humane bat removal methods.

    sam April 12, 2016 at 12:39 pm

    Moth ball and water has proven effective. Additionally, repellents can be used.

    David June 28, 2016 at 1:44 pm

    This page briefly touches on time of year, suggesting an early spring or late summer eviction. The best times of year are September, October, or April. This is crucial information that should be stressed up-front. You can’t remove bats in late May, June, July, or early August. It is called the summer maternity season. Bats in the attic are colonies composed entirely of females. All USA colonizing bat species give birth to their young in the late spring, usually May, and the young cannot fly until mid-August. Under no circumstances should you install screening to keep bats out, or do any kind of bat exclusion, until the baby bats can fly. To be safe, wait until at least September before doing any of the work described above. Otherwise, you will kill baby bats!

    carissa August 4, 2016 at 1:39 am

    I have 200 little brown bats in my cedar shingles. Iv tried water but they don’t mind. I live in central Ohio and don’t want them here all winter. I feel like there isn’t any hope after reading all these stories

    Get your FREE Trial Issue of Old House Journal and 2 FREE gifts.
    Yes! Please send me a FREE trial issue of Old House Journal and 2 FREE gifts.
    If I like it and decide to continue, I'll get 7 more issues (8 in all) for just $24.95, a savings of 48%. If for any reason I decide not to continue,
    I'll write cancel on the invoice and owe nothing. The Free Trial Issue is mine to keep, no matter what.
     Full Name:
     Address 1:
     Address 2:
     Zip Code:
     Email (req):
    Offer valid in US only.
    Click here for Canada or here for international subscriptions

    Products & ServicesHouse ToursHistoric PlacesHouse StylesOldHouseOnline.comMagazine
    Architectual ElementsKitchen & BathsHistoric HotelsArchitectural TermsRepairs & How ToSubscribe to Old-House Journal
    BathsInterior & DécorHistoric NeighborhoodsAmerican FoursquareFree NewslettersBack Issues
    Ceilings & WallsGardens & ExteriorsHouse MuseumsBungalowSubscribe to Arts & Crafts HomesDigital Editions
    Doors & WindowsColonial RevivalOld House CommunityAdvertise
    Exterior Products & LandscapeGothicAbout Us 
    FlooringQueen AnneContact Us 
    FurnitureVictorianPrivacy Policy
    HardwareLand for Sale
    Heating & CoolingSite Map
    Home Décor
    Period Lighting
    Real Estate
    Repair & Restoration
    Roofing & Siding
    Tools & Equipment

    Designer Sourcw e bookHistoric Home Show Logo

    Copyright © 2011-2017 Old House Online