Thanks to good design, old, weathered buildings can sometimes be as sound as newly built ones.

When I drive along rural roads, I sometimes come upon old farm buildings that have been abandoned long ago. I’m often surprised to find that although the wood is weathered and gray, the siding, trim, window sash, and sills are still remarkably sound. Why is this, when I’ve seen just as many 10- to 15-year-old buildings already in need of replacement sash and jambs?

The survival of traditional materials in an outdoor environment usually depends upon four interdependent factors: design, material, craftsmanship, and maintenance. In the case of these old buildings, I can’t speak for the craftsmanship, and I know that maintenance has been absent for quite some time, so I attribute their stubborn survival to quality, old-growth wood and the attention paid to design details. These details were often second nature to builders until the early part of the 20th century, when man-made materials (aluminum, composites, synthetics) freed the builder from the mundane and time-consuming chores of detailing every joint and attending to the pitch of every surface.

However, for the restorer who still works in the everyday realm of old houses, and does not have the advantage offered by old-growth timbers or the choice to install synthetics, then attention to detail can mean the difference between a project that lasts 5 years and one that lasts 10 times that. Modern plantation-grown lumber is notoriously poor at resisting decay, so protection through thoughtful design should be the number-one concern.

The simple key to all good design is the ability to shed water. The study of older structures reveals this on many levels. Sometimes the aesthetic style of a building is even shaped by this basic requirement. Craftsmen who are not familiar with traditional building practices are inclined to reproduce the overall appearance of an element without a full appreciation of the original construction detailing that incorporated this simple rule of thumb.

Even small surfaces such as panel molding need a slight slope to keep them from trapping water.

If we mentally follow water that flows across the roof, we can trace its path all the way to the ground as it encounters many surface textures and pitches, various joint orientations and path changes before it soaks into the soil. New, old, or treated lumber, as well as stone and metal, can benefit by employing three basic principles of design that will keep water away from the portions of the structure that are most vulnerable to fungal decay, freeze/thaw cycles, and ponding.

Design Principle #1: Avoid Flat, Horizontal Surfaces Where Possible

Everything from porch floors to windowsills and head casings should be constructed to promote the flow of water away from the building. Slopes of 5, 10, or even 20 degrees are reasonable. Although this seems intuitively obvious, it’s remarkable how often I see new porch railings installed with a flat handrail and bottom rail.

Many times, small pieces of molding, such as the lower panel molding on a door or shutter, are often discounted as having an insignificant amount of flat surface to make any difference. Yet, these are places where water can pond for prolonged periods of time, so make sure that every horizontal surface, no matter how small, is inclined away from the building.

When joints at the base of square columns point downward and are protected by flashing, rainwater naturally slides off the wooden element, preventing infiltration that can lead to rot.

Design Principle #2: Avoid Joints That Face Skyward

This may well be the chief source of water infiltration and subsequent deterioration in modern construction. This joint orientation tends to show up where broad handrails meet columns or when square column bases are wrapped in wood.

No matter how carefully the joints of newly restored wooden elements are caulked, the caulk will eventually fail and admit water. If you do need to caulk existing vertical seams, avoid caulking the earth-facing lower edge of an element. When water enters, it’s much better to let it flow through unimpeded, rather than to trap it by blocking its path with a bead of caulk.

In practice, this may be the most time-consuming joint to make watertight, but the dividends are worth the effort. To get the design right, think like a roofer, and install pieces from the ground up. For example, install the lower panel molding first and cope the side moldings to it. Use flashing on seams that can’t be easily eliminated or redesigned. Where horizontal and vertical members meet (such as handrails and columns), mortise the vertical member to accept the horizontal.

Design Principle #3: Avoid Unvented Spaces

Water seeping into hollow, unvented columns can create a breeding ground for mold; simple vents at the top and bottom of the column will allow water to evaporate.

Box beams, hollow columns, soffits, and even weight pockets on sash windows can trap water or water vapor. Moisture typically enters through open seams in the upper portion of an element and puddles in a watertight lower space—for example, water entering a column through a leaky porch roof. Unvented shafts will then fill with water until it ever so slowly seeps under the edge of the shaft. In the darkness of an enclosed space, moist air laden with fungal spores spells peril for wooden surfaces.

Although I’ve seen unvented, old-growth hollow columns that have survived for more than 100 years, it’s unlikely that unvented columns constructed from modern lumber will survive that long. Columns can be vented through the plinth or through vents directly installed in the column shaft. Make sure that any vents installed in this way are screened to limit the potential for the open space to become living quarters for insects or other pests. The top can be vented into the roof space or simply at the perimeter joist. Venting both extremities of an enclosed space will promote airflow and the consequent movement of water vapor.

Although it’s tempting to give in to the immediate pleasure brought on by fresh caulk and paint, as old-house stewards, we must take a longer-term view of repair projects. The first step in doing so is to hold fast to the principles of good design.

Ray Tschoepe, one of OHJ’s contributing editors, is the director of conservation at the Fairmount Park Historic Preservation Trust in Philadelphia.

Online exclusive: Get more tips for keeping water away from your house from restoration pro Duffy Hoffman, who will be teaching a class on the subject at this spring’s Historic Home Show.

Old houses often need updates to electrical systems; the author’s 1903 home was no exception. Follow these tips to get it done without causing undue—or irreparable—damage to your building. (Photo: Jon Crispin)

Computers, blenders, TVs, even refrigerators—none of these existed when many historic homes were built and first wired. So upgrading electrical systems is an essential task for a lot of old houses. Yet efforts to update electrical systems can often result in damage to historic buildings.

Conversations with top electricians have provided us with a a list of steps to take in order to make rewiring proceed more smoothly, with fewer holes punched in the walls, floors, and ceilings—or, heaven forbid, a structural beam.

Steps to Safely Rewiring Your House

1. Do an “electrical inventory,” creating a list of all the devices you’ll be using in the house, and where. Your electrical system needs to match your needs; figuring out where and how you’ll be using power makes it easier to frame the parameters of the job.

2. Check out local codes and pull permits. Codes set standards for everything from how many outlets you’ll put in each room to what kind of wire you’ll be using. Failing to get permits can result in having to pull out finished work.

3. Decide whether you want to run just electrical, or data, fire, and security as well. Modern wiring doesn’t just carry electricity, and wireless systems are getting increasingly cheaper and more sophisticated.

4. Use your list to create a detailed plan of action. Once you’ve done your initial homework, sit down and create a punch list that focuses on what you want done and when you want it completed; the list should be the basis of your relationship with your electrician.

Breaker panels with a jumble of old wires (top) need to be checked carefully by an electrician for intact coatings, burn marks or signs of arcing damage, and solid connections. An updated main panel box (bottom). (Photos: Jon Roberts/Courtesy of Perfect Electric Services, Inc.)

5. Watch for existing infrastructure.Part of avoiding damage is making sure nobody punches holes in plumbing or existing wiring. This kind of awareness needs to be a top priority in any rewiring job. “Ask twice, drill once”—one historic electrician’s credo—are words to live by.

6. Always put things in writing, but leave flexibility. Surprises invariably show up, especially when you’re digging deep into a building’s structure.

7. Find an electrician who knows and understands older buildings. Working in older buildings is a complex, demanding, and difficult process.

8. Make demolition and reconstruction an integral part of the job. If dealing with the damage done by rewiring isn’t at or near the top of your list, you’re asking for trouble. Make cleanup and restoration as important as the wiring itself.

9. Aim for “home runs” for key areas and appliances—these are when a wire runs directly from a circuit breaker to an outlet, with no other devices on that breaker. That can reduce loads on the power system and keep popped breakers to a minimum. Additionally, it’s important to keep track of which areas feed to which breakers where more than one outlet is involved. Creating a “balanced” system will make life easier as your load expands and you put new wiring to use.

10. Integrate switches and plates into the historic look and feel of the house. Numerous companies offer hardware that matches the appearance and the feel of almost any era, while providing a far greater margin of safety than older equipment does.

Modern Demands

New wiring systems often can be run near the old—as in this vintage house that’s been successfully rewired, with a new box placed near now-defunct ceramic knobs on the basement ceiling. (Photo: Peter Means)

The demands of modern technology can exacerbate the situation, and they’re at risk of doing so all the time. Older houses were built at a time when 60 amps was considered plenty of electricity for a single residence. By contrast, most new homes are built with 150- or 200-amp service, but 100 amps was the standard for many years—and most experts agree that anything less than 100 amps is unlikely to meet the electrical needs of a contemporary household.

I can attest to that—my house has 100 amps, and it definitely isn’t enough. The service is split between a main panel in the basement and a sub-panel on the third floor. The panel on the basement is so fully loaded that we’ll have to do an upgrade when it comes time to finish the kitchen. And our electrical work to date has left uneven holes punched in our walls and ceilings, which have proved difficult to repair.

Prevention is Key

Creating a clean cut via a hole saw or careful work (bottom) will make it easier to make walls or ceilings whole again. Uneven access holes, like this one punched in the author’s house (top), prove difficult to patch. (Photos: Tony Seideman/Peter Means)

First and foremost, it’s critical to understand that you’re dealing with an older building—and if keeping the structure of that building relatively intact is your top priority, you need to say so up front. Chances are you may have to pay a little extra to protect your building, but a few preventive dollars and hours can save big sums spent on restoring battered walls and weakened structures.

Make sure specialists each focus on their areas of expertise. “Try to never let the plumber or electrician cut holes, especially in an historic building,” historic architect Robert Gabalski told us. “When you’re walking an electrician through a building, require in the specs very specific ways to cut and patch, or make sure the general contractor does it for them,” he advises.

One of the biggest mistakes many restorers make is to try to replace every piece of old wiring in the system, says Michael Hedrick of Historic Electric Preservation in Fredericksburg, Virginia. “Most efforts tend to be heavy-handed and replace more than what is truly necessary to an older system. Many parts of an older wiring system, if they have been undisturbed, are still quite usable and reasonably safe,” he says. “Bottom line, after inspection by a competent and qualified electrician, leave much of what you find in place and working. There are many houses with electrical systems from the 1920s still delivering power in a safe and efficient manner.”

The house's gable-and-wing plan and pedimented gable supported by pilasters show influences of the Greek Revival style just coming into fashion at the time it was built in the 1830s.

When my husband, Todd, and I found our dream fixer-upper house in upstate New York, we had to look beyond the overgrown ivy, layers of peeling paint, and 1950s remuddles to glimpse its potential. Beneath all the vegetation and dirt, vestiges of a grand 1830s Greek Revival style house came into view, including four fireplaces, original 6/6 windows, and elaborate moldings. I dreamed of rescuing the house from its nightmare of neglect and filling its rooms with historic wallpaper, restored plaster walls, and period antiques and rugs. We bought the house, and immediately set to work saving it. Fourteen years later, our work still isn’t done, but we’ve grown much wiser about what to do—and what not to do. While we enjoy our house and all the effort we’ve put into it, every day the restoration lessons we’ve learned are helping us proceed more wisely with remaining projects, and they can help others, too.

Be flexible. We couldn’t afford to relocate during the demolition phase, so we had to get creative with living arrangements. Over three years, our bedroom moved to four different rooms, and our kitchen to two. The key to living through the changes was having few furnishings, which meant we could readily rearrange them, and being flexible. If you are flexible enough, anything can seem normal.

Alicia Campbell, husband Todd, and son Devin pose on the front steps of their Greek Revival house in upstate New York.

Tackle messy projects first. Those that have the luxury to live elsewhere can take the whole-house approach to restoration; the rest of us must work on rooms one at a time. We found a sort of happy middle ground by doing the demolition on all common spaces at the same time, then one by one finishing off areas we deemed essential for comfortable living, like the kitchen and a bathroom. We learned to group messy projects together after continually washing plaster dust from dishes, beds, floors, clothing, and trim. Moving the destructive work through the house in sections got the worst parts over all at once and saved cleaning time.

Be patient. In the beginning, we set lofty goals for every project: I even projected the whole house as a two- to three-year restoration. This vision was blown six months after we began, when we were still plastering the kitchen. Every room we tackled presented similar surprises and unanticipated costs, and for every step forward we stumbled back a couple as well. Our kitchen alone took a year and a half to complete. Having the patience to live through the mess, and the willingness to take on extra work to meet goals, made surviving the restoration possible.

The finished bath's period details belie its remuddled past.

Take time away. In an effort to finish the project early, it was easy for us to get caught up in a daily routine of working exclusively on the house. A couple of times, we even used vacation days from work to get a little further ahead restoring a room. After a while, though, working on our house wasn’t much fun anymore. We began to feel we would never finish, and we were coming down with restoration burnout. That’s when we learned that spending a weekend or two away from the place could help us forget the pains of ripping down walls, stripping multiple layers of paint, or wiping heavy dust off of tabletops. A couple of days away left us feeling refreshed and ready to continue.

You can learn anything. Finding the right craftspeople to work on our house proved more difficult than we anticipated—especially when we wanted to reproduce a historic appearance. We couldn’t find many people capable of recreating 19th century techniques, and couldn’t afford those who were experts at them. Through The Old-House Journal Guide to Restoration, a three-day class, and lots of practice, we managed to learn plastering. Through other books and professional guidance, we also learned to repair and re-glaze windows, patch and install flooring, put up clapboards, and re-create some moulding profiles. Granted, these projects took us much longer than they would have taken professionals, but we achieved the exact look we wanted, saved lots of money, and gained a great sense of satisfaction by doing them ourselves.

Another find led to the installation of chair rail in the living room. "We saw evidence that a chair rail once existed under the window," Alicia explains. "So we recreated the molding and extended it around the room."

Consult professionals (when needed). Inexperienced homeowners just shouldn’t attempt some tasks. We learned this the hard way when trying to plaster our entire new kitchen and pantry, consisting of two separate ceilings and eight walls. Todd, my father, and I had done a decent job on the first coat of plaster. After a Herculean effort of mixing, hauling, and smoothing, it had turned out pretty well—mostly level, completely floated, and ready for a second coat. The mistake we made was taking a break of about a week to focus on another project. When we returned our attention to the kitchen to install the second, or finish, coat, we discovered that our first coat of plaster had cured to a point where applying a second one was impossible. Our attempts to rescue the job were disastrous; almost instantly the finish coat dried into a hard, unworkable blob. Not knowing what else to do, we chiseled off the deformed plaster lumps and called a local restoration expert. He referred us to a professional plasterer, whose years of experience made solving the problem look easy. By thoroughly re-wetting the first coat of plaster with a garden hose, then adding retarder to the finish coat to slow its curing, he finished the entire job in two days, for a cost well worth it.

Ashlar wallpaper in the entry was reproduced from an original remnant found hidden in a channel beside the door. "It was probably the best find of the whole house," says Alicia.

Be clear with contractors. Several times, we described a project to a contractor, left the house, and returned to results we hadn’t expected, such as several feet of porch trim that just didn’t suit the house, or doorways in the same room that differed in height. In some cases we had to fix the damage ourselves or even start over, which was an added expense to our already extensive costs. While contractors were always happy to consult with us, if we weren’t on the premises they would continue working and use their best judgment to save time and money. Unfortunately, our visions didn’t always agree. In hindsight, we could have avoided these mix-ups with better communication and some drawings, written instructions, pictures from books or magazines, or follow-up throughout the job.

Research, research, research. Through local experts, books, and tools like the Internet, a broad range of information is available on just about any repair. When preparing for a new project, we explored as many options as possible, including several different approaches and materials. Comparing methods allowed us to choose a solid plan, and usually saved us money, too. It also helped us ask contractors the right questions, making sure their approach to a project made sense for us.

An unattached timber-frame barn erected by Todd and Alicia looks as though it has existed on the property forever. Building it, however, nearly did them in. Weather delays and the Mushroom Factor drove them to the brink of exhaustion, and taught them to slow down and better pace their work.

Pace yourself. After restoring our house for 11 years, we decided to push and finish so we could have time to hike, play tennis, and travel again. But we also wanted an unattached timber-frame barn to replace the 1950s, attached two-car garage that came with the house. So in the middle of finishing up our back woodshed/family room project—and prepping interior walls for paper and painting trimwork—we decided to build the barn sooner rather than later. We began ordering materials, putting on the roof, installing the cornice and trim, repairing old windows, and nailing up all of the clapboards. As with most projects, we hit snags, such as a summer of torrential rain that soaked materials and blew our schedule. The barn was at least three times the work we initially expected. Continually exhausted and stressed, we realized we had taken on too much. As cold weather approached, we decided to finish the barn in the spring or as time permitted, and wrapped up only what had to be done before winter. Being realistic allowed us to maintain our sanity.

The Campbells used reproduction wallpaper throughout the house.

Take stock of progress. I should have kept repeating these words several years ago, when Todd and I were stripping paint off of our upstairs trim. Sweat dripped down our faces behind the respirators; thick, smelly chemicals covered our clothes; and the trim seemed to extend for miles. It felt like we would never finish. Day by day, though, we looked at our small accomplishments, like exposing the original detail on a patch of trim. Soon our undertakings added up to a section of a room, then a whole room, and eventually several of them. Throughout the work, we kept the vision of a completed historic house in our heads, and it helped us continue.

Humor is key. This lesson was easier to realize after most of the hard work was done. While renovating our downstairs bathroom, we removed a dropped ceiling only to discover it had been hiding a long, large cast iron waste pipe. Removing the pipe to reroute the plumbing became a job of epic proportions—a classic example of the Mushroom Factor. We decided to break it loose with a large sledgehammer, but realized the falling pipe would damage the soft pine floorboards beneath it. So we resolved to tie the pipe to a heavy object through a hole in the ceiling above, and slowly lower it down. Thus I became the “anchor” for the pipe, with a thick rope tied around my waist and my tensed legs braced against a second-storey wall. As Todd slowly guided the pipe downward, and I gently released sections of rope, I envisioned the pipe falling and sucking me through the hole with it. It wasn’t one of our safest or smartest ideas, but we accomplished the job without killing ourselves or the floor, and I still laugh thinking about it.

That’s because, even during the holidays, the restorer never forgets his or her true love: that old house. Gifts that make working on it easier, faster, and better—from basic toolbox staples to new-and-improved gadgets—are always a welcome addition under the tree.

The Latest & Greatest

	Pancake Compressor Compressors are a must-have item for serious DIYers—they make nailing trim and other decorative elements as easy as pulling a lever. Porter-Cable’s new 165-psi, 4-gallon pancake compressor packs more usable air and a faster recovery time into a compact package that’s also lighter and about 30 percent quieter than previous models. About $170; (888) 848-5175, deltaportercable.com
	Stay-Put Tape Measure Tapes that stay where you want them—without rolling over or pulling away from the surface you’re measuring until you’re done—are key to making efficient measurements. The hook on Bostitch’s new Bi-Material Tape with BladeArmor has a surface area 150 percent larger than traditional tape measures, and its 13′ standout makes it easy to measure materials from a variety of angles. 25′ tape measure, $25; (800) 556-6696, bostitch.com
	AirGrip Laser Level In an old house, where there’s rarely a straight line, a level is a must, and one that keeps your hands free is even better. Ryobi’s tiny laser level vacuum-grips the wall, even on uneven surfaces, to stay in place while you align shelves and picture frames. Unlike other hands-free levels that use sticky paper or pins, this one won’t mar your walls. $20; 800-525-2579, ryobitools.com.
	Anti-Vibe Hammer All hammers are not created equal—some can make jobs move faster. Take the new Anti-Vibe hammers from Bostitch: A strike face that’s 75 percent larger than the industry standard makes it easier to hit your target, while improved tuning-fork technology works to minimize vibration, and torsion control stabilizers help ease arm fatigue. Available in several sizes. 28-oz. hammer, $28; (800) 556-6696, bostitch.com.

The Classics

	Reciprocating Saw (aka Sawzall) For major projects like removing clapboards or getting rid of rotten porch planks, the Sawzall’s ability to cut through both wood and metal makes it invaluable. Word to the wise: This demolition tool can spell disaster in the hands of uninformed homeowners, so make sure your recipient knows what should and shouldn’t be removed. (Might we suggest an OHJ subscription as a companion gift?) Around $80, (800) 729-3878, milwaukeetool.com.
	Good-Quality Respirator It may not be as flattering to wear as, say, a cashmere sweater, but no old-house restorer should be without a decent respirator. A rubber half-mask with a changeable cartridge is a good bet for basic home repair needs—we like the 3M 6000 Series because it comes in several sizes, and filter changes are a snap. Include HEPA (for airborne dust particles like lead) and charcoal (for organic vapors like oil paints and strippers) filters to protect against the most common repair-related toxins. From around $11; (888) 364-3577, 3m.com.
	Wood Planes Anyone creating woodwork for an older home—where new pieces can stick out because they lack the hand-planing marks of older craftsmanship—can appreciate a set of good wood planes. For general use, 6″ to 10″ block planes are a toolbox staple. Scrub planes are also good to have on hand; the subtle U shape of their blade creates hand-planing definition. Standard block plane, $145; (800) 871-8158, leevalley.com.
	Utility Shears Capable of handling a wide variety of projects both inside the house and out, utility shears can’t be beat. They can prune trees, cut tubing and dowels to size, trim weatherstripping, and more. Stanley’s latest version features a 1″-wide opening that cuts with standard utility blades, attached via a nut for easy changeovers. There’s also storage for up to five standard utility blades in the handle, so you always have a fresh one at the ready. $10; (800) 782-6539, stanleytools.com.

Stocking Stuffers

	Windo-Zipper This inexpensive little tool is an absolute must-have for any wooden window owner. Its triangle-shaped head allows you to get in between sashes or any other adjoining woodwork pieces that are stuck together by paint buildup. The serrated edges “unzip” the paint bead to regain sash movement. $8; (800) 423-3845, reddevil.com.
	Circuit and Polarity Testers Before plugging an electrical device—especially high-tech gear like a new computer—into an old socket, you’ll first want to make sure the outlets in your house are safe, meaning their polarity is properly wired and grounded. That’s where these testers come in. Ideal’s version diagnoses wiring via easy-to-read colored light combinations. Around $8; (800) 445-6937, lowes.com.
	Adjustable-jaw Wrench Whether you’re working with old bolts or new plumbing, this wrench—often called a Channel Lock wrench after a common brand—is invaluable. A slide offers multiple positions to hold and turn, and better-quality ones have spring systems to lock the grip in place. Parallel-jaw adjustable wrenches, from $65; (800) 221-2942, garrettwade.com.
	The Gadget Landscape buffs will appreciate this handy, compact multi-tool from Arnold that combines 11 commonly used tools in one easy-to-carry accessory. Armed with four standard-sized sockets; standard, Phillips, and T27 TORX screwdrivers; and even a chainsaw file holder, The Gadget can be a pinch hitter on a number of old-house projects. It even comes with a handy bottle opener, and hangs from a belt loop via an attached carabiner clip. $15; (800) 466-3337, homedepot.com.

Online Exclusive: Now that the shopping’s done, enter your home in our holiday decorating contest! Click here to find out how to submit your photos.

A ladder reaching just to the roofline is fine for tackling gable-level jobs.

For many folks, buying a ladder for a project seems almost so basic you don’t even need to think about it. Whatever looks tall enough to get you up there should do the trick, right?

Wrong. Whether you’re talking stepladder or extension ladder, buying one and using it safely requires a little know-how. Some anticipation of the future projects you might undertake helps in getting the best ladder and the best value. When I’m choosing a ladder, I consider how often I’ll use it, what I’ll use it for, and my two most important criteria: how high I’m going and what the ground or surface that I’m climbing from is like.

Properly cared for and used, ladders last a long time. Buying the right one for current—and perhaps future—projects is energy well spent; you’ll hedge your bets against wasting money and taking needless chances with your own safety.

Extension Ladders

The highest climbs I typically make in my residential remodeling practice are over the eaves of a two-story dwelling for anything from painting to gutter maintenance to roof work.

A 24′ extension ladder is the correct choice for most of these kinds of projects; lean one up against the house extended all the way, and it’ll probably touch the gutters, no problem. However—and this is something I hope you don’t find out firsthand—it isn’t the right ladder for getting on the roof.

A ladder extended above the roofline makes for easy—and safe—gutter cleaning.

When exiting the ladder on a climb to the roof, the ladder rails should extend a full 3′ past the height you’ve climbed. This allows you to have the rails within reach, so you can hold on to them and have a rung very close to the edge of the roof as you transition between the ladder and roof and back again. On most two-story homes, this can only be done with a 28′ extension ladder. (This 3′ extension rule also holds true indoors and for shorter heights like one-story dwellings; you’ll just need a shorter ladder.)

Alternatively, if you have no plans to get on the roof, a 24′ ladder will typically get you to the eaves of a two-story house for painting, window repair, and other items along the sidewall. However, it’s not unheard of for folks to misuse ladders when unintended situations arise. “Nah, I’ll never need to go on the roof,” you think—until a hurricane deposits a tree branch there, or blows off shingles so it’s raining in your bedroom. Next thing you know, you’re bouncing up your (undersized) ladder because it’s an emergency. If there’s a scintilla of a chance you’ll go topside, my advice is to buy up. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

Tips for Using Extension Ladders

You can move a ladder into an upright position for easy carrying in three steps. Always make sure you map your path—one that’s clear of electrical lines and tree branches—beforehand.

Here are a few of my favorite tips for using extension ladders. This isn’t a complete safety checklist, nor does it cover every situation. For complete information on the situations and ladders you have, check the manufacturer’s safety information.

How to Move a Ladder
It seems a little counterintuitive, but I find it easiest to carry an extension ladder vertically. I tilt it up from the ground, putting the ladder on its feet. Next, I reach down with one hand to grab the rung below my hip, and up with the other hand to grab the rung above my head, then lift to carry the ladder. Because I’m holding the ladder vertically, when I reach my destination, all I have to do is put the feet down and lean it against the building.

Before I go anywhere, however, I map out my route and plan accordingly. While bumping tree branches is frustrating, bumping the electric supply line to the house is terrifying, if not deadly—even if your ladder is fiberglass.

Ladder Positioning
There’s a simple science to positioning the ladder against a building at the proper angle for optimum safety. If you can stand with your toes at the ladder feet and reach straight out with your hands to touch the rungs with your fingertips, you’ve got the right angle. If not, adjust until you can.

The ladder angle’s correct if you can stand with your toes at the feet and, with arms extended, touch the rungs with your fingertips.

On uneven terrain, you need to block up one of the ladder’s feet so it’s plumb. The wider and more stable the item (think a 2×12 instead of a brick), the safer you’ll be. Alternatively, there are several ladder-leveling accessories on the market. Remember that whether the ground is level or not, the ladder rungs need to be level for maximum safety.

In wet, muddy terrain, kick the ladder’s feet parallel with the rails and drive them into the mud before angling the ladder against the building. (Sometimes you’ll need to lean the ladder on the building, lift it a little, and roll the feet with your hand.) Some feet have spikes or cleats to help them dig in.

Climbing Safety
When you’re on a ladder, follow the belt-buckle rule: Always keep your buckle between the rails. No matter how temping it is to stretch a few more inches to paint that siding, keeping your buckle between the rails helps keep you balanced and in control.

Stepladders

The legs on Little Giant's Select Step articulating ladder adjust independently to master uneven ground.

Stepladders are front-line home improvement tools—and one of the most misused. A 4′ or 6′ stepladder will get you to the ceiling of an average home for anything from repairing lights to installing crown molding to hanging pictures.

They work well as a team, too. For example, a 6′ stepladder is too tall and its leg-spread too wide to fit within a door frame to set casing, while a four-footer isn’t tall enough to reach a 10′ ceiling to hang a ceiling fan. I’ve found that having both helps me all over the house.

Purchasing a Stepladder
When buying a stepladder, then, the rule of thumb to keep in mind is that your feet will stay about 2′ below the ladder’s nominal height. For example, a 6′ stepladder gets your feet about 4′ above the ground. Add your own height to that number for a real picture of where the ladder will get you.

Climbing Safety
The danger people usually run into with stepladders is that, despite written warnings, they insist on using the “THIS IS NOT A STEP” rung. Climbing there to reach porch gutters or trim a branch often results in meeting the ground at a high rate of speed.

Accessories like stand-offs are an easy way to prop ladders away from the house to work on windows or gutters.

Specialty Ladders & Accessories

A basic stepladder or extension ladder will usually get you where you need to go. However, because they have fixed legs and/or heights, they have their limits, which has paved the way for articulating ladders and other versatile accessories.

For example, the Select Step stepladder (from Little Giant, who pretty much invented articulating ladders) features independently telescoping front and rear legs, which let you work efficiently in all kinds of situations. Personally, I use it all over the place—leaning the ladder snug against the wall to install a porch light, trimming a tree branch on uneven terrain, or cleaning the second-story gutters above my porch roof, adjusting the legs in each situation so the ladder stands close to how it would in normal use.

For a different take on the extension ladder, Extend and Climb has a series of compact, telescoping ladders good for any number of jobs. They get you where you’re going, then retract into a compact, easy-to-carry, easy-to-store package.

Telescoping ladders fold into a compact package when not in use, but unfurl to a standard height.

While most major manufacturers now make an articulating ladder, sometimes what the doctor ordered is a ladder accessory. Base Mate’s Professional Ladder Stabilizer attaches to your existing extension ladder, enabling you to adjust it easily and safely to accommodate uneven terrain. Rubber bumpers and stand-offs like Werner’s QuickClick let you prop an extension ladder more gently or away from the home so you can span a window or keep from crushing gutters.

Reaching the top means using the right ladder the right way. Just about everything you need to know about your ladder is printed on it. Read every label—it will help you set up your ladder and use it properly every time, keeping you safe.

Carpenter Mark Clement is working on his century-old American Foursquare in Ambler, Pennsylvania.

The addition to this Massachusetts farmhouse is a basic ell off the back of the house, which echoes the home’s original form through roof pitch and window sizes. (Photo: Damianos Photography)

We’ve all seen one: the old house that suddenly sprouts an obtuse room extension or overpowering wing addition, subverting the stylistic form and swallowing its original structure —all in the pursuit of increased space. Additions to old houses don’t have to be incongruous appendages out of sync with the scale and details that give the building its character. Studying your house’s historic plan, shapes, and materials—the architectural “genetics” that already exist—then applying some common-sense design principles and time-tested ideas can help it grow in a way that fits both the building and your lifestyle needs. Here are five basic ideas to remember when considering additions to old houses and how they were used to successfully complete five widely varying projects.

1. Keep the addition in the background.

“When we wanted to add on to our house,” says Andrea Wald of Framingham, Massachusetts, “we looked at the only practical option: the back of the building.” Andrea and her husband, Mark, didn’t want the addition to disrupt  the symmetry of the New England farmhouse or be visible from the road. On top of this the original rear façade was a nearly perfect blank slate to build their addition.

Homeowner Andrea Wald and architect Jonathan Hale created a modern, functional kitchen while maintaining a sense of the home’s past. Andrea chose simple cabinetry, beadboard wainscotting, and 5”-wide maple floor boards to maintain an old-house feel. (Photo: Damianos Photography)

“Placement is a key consideration when planning an addition,” says architect Jonathan Hale, who designed the kitchen, mudroom, laundry, and bath addition for the Walds. Adding onto the back preserves the public façade of the house, thereby maintaining the historic character of the home and the context of the neighborhood. Moreover, building onto the rear is the most common growth pattern for a house in New England, as well as across the country. From late 16th-century Capes to vernacular farmhouses of the 19th century, ell extensions—typically for a “modern” stove-equipped kitchen—were regularly added off the back, and on New England farms that room might also grow a winter passage to the barn. The local historic precedent for such an addition helps it look correct in a new project. “To work, the addition needs a sense of belonging,” says Hale. “Each individual house has a personality, so I ask, ‘What is the house telling me? What are the rhythms of the house?’”

Architect Chris Jenkins also believes in creating a vernacular narrative for a new addition. He looks at the history of similar houses in an area to discern how the house he is adding onto might have grown in the past. In the case of the garage addition beside an 1828 Virginia farmhouse, Jenkins gave the exterior of the addition the look of 19th-century summer kitchens attached to houses throughout the region. Jenkins is no less mindful of contemporary practices and he also looks at any existing property constraints. He recommends that you ask, “Is this a historic district? What are the set-back ordinances? Do I need to get a variance?”

When Pat and Frank Durbin bought a carriage house in Port Townsend, Washington, they wanted to add a master bath. Pat bought a $30 3-D Architect computer software program and started noodling around with design ideas. She ended up with a seamless bath and porch addition to the house. (Photo: John Granen)

2. Study proportions.

Whether it is the length and width of a porch, or the dimensions and placement of windows, when code allows do your best to maintain and emulate the original proportions of an old house in an addition. While the specific materials will be new and possibly different in their details, respecting original proportions will help avoid upsetting the overall historic character of the building—for example, the horizontal emphasis of Prairie-influenced houses—as well as bridge past and present.

“Southern structures were typically one room deep to allow cross breezes that beat the South’s summer climate,” says Jenkins. “They were also built this way as a function of the timber construction; the length of timber determines room size.” An addition that ignores dimensional parameters of the house’s original structural system, or grafts an incompatible structural system, will look out of place and out of time.

When homeowner Pat Durbin wanted to build onto her Victorian-era carriage house-cum-home in Port Townsend, Washington, the original 10´-wide porch dictated the space that could be added to the  building. They wrapped the porch around the right side of the house, using that 10´- wide dimension as a guide, without disrupting the house’s original scale. A master bathroom sits above the new porch extension. The Durbins also carried the original window measurements into the new structure.

3. Size matters; keep scale subordinate.

To allow the historic portion of an 1828 Virginia farmhouse to remain visually distinct, the 700-square-foot garage addition was conceived as a detached summer kitchen. The addition was placed perpendicular to the house with a screened-porch connector.

Many unappealing additions suffer from gigantism. When occupants want more space, they often concentrate on gaining more square footage on the interior, but overlook the impact on the exterior. Compared to public buildings, houses are small and consequently tricky to expand easily; small houses are even harder. What’s left of an 1,800-square-foot Foursquare if you try to append a 2,000- square-foot addition?

Most successful additions to old houses keep the size and scale smaller so that they “read” as secondary. “Allow the original structure to take center stage and let the addition be subordinate,” says designer David Heide. For a 1904 Queen Anne in Minneapolis, Minnesota, Heide chose to keep the addition to a single storey at the back.

Keep the dimensions small and spend your money on the details that will create a harmonious transition from the old to new space. This rule will help maintain the  overall character of the older structure. Building below the line of the original roof and setting back walls from primary façades are also key in subordinating an addition.

Designer David Heide created an entryway with a semicircular family room—a form not found on this particular building but on other houses in the neighborhood—with an adjacent study. (Photo: David Heide)

4. Respect original materials and details.

A new addition to an old house has the potential to damage its historic materials and features. Before you begin the project, get to know your house. “Study the original structure thoroughly, and then tread lightly,” says Jenkins. Document existing materials and take measurements of the floor plan, vertical heights, and the components of the house—its windows, doors, and cladding. With copious notes in hand, your designer or architect can replicate details from the original house into the new addition.

When designing additions to historic buildings, architects find creative ways to preserve as much of the original structure as possible. In the Wald House in  Massachusetts, Hale created a hyphen (connector) between the addition and the original structure. This 6´-tall connector has the same ceiling height of the original house. The larger portion of the addition opens into the kitchen with a cathedral ceiling. In creating this compact access to the addition, Hale kept all the second-floor windows, saving precious natural light. For the Virginia farmhouse addition, Jenkins designed a small breezeway connector leading from the house to the garage. Again this smaller hyphen preserved much of the original wall.

When it comes to the new work, materials and finishes that follow the original details, even when not identical in composition, will echo its character and help the addition look of a piece. Many window companies today are introducing historic proportions in window shapes and muntin patterns. (You can even order windows with traditional pulley- and-chain or rope balances.) Energy-codes permitting, homeowners can opt for single-glazed windows with storms opposed to more modern-looking double-glazed units. Sometimes contemporary materials can be modified to historic dimensions, such as ripping clapboards on site to match originals.

David Heide wanted to create a clear map of what was original and what was not. He delineated one period from another by using different materials from the original. (Photo: Alex Steinberg)

Another good way to maintain continuity between the old and new is to incorporate salvage materials. Jenkins used recycled brick for the new chimney on the Farmville, Virginia, property. He also found a company to match the existing mortar. In his garage addition, Jenkins specified true divided-light 9/9 windows with restoration glass, as well as beaded lap siding and a standing seam roof.

Heide replicated the columns on the front of the Colonial Revival onto the new back porch in a smaller size. Hale added windows in authentic Victorian-era proportions over the sink in the Wald kitchen—a reference to that period. When deciding on interior finishes for an addition, look at the original styling of the house for clues about how that new room should reflect the older structure.

From a historic preservation standpoint, it’s worth noting that there’s a limit to authentic details; in fact, well-done projects make sure to leave enough clues to let the next generation know where the original structure ends and the new one begins. Countless garden-variety old houses have gone through alterations in the past—some seamless, some more obvious. Many architects agree that while it is important to create a felicitous pairing between the old and new, in harmony with the existing building in scale, proportion, materials, and color, the new structure should be identifiable in some way. Often this is achieved through the choice of building materials.

The rear addition was the last of three phases of work on the White residence in suburban New Jersey. A terrace, visible on the right, connects the new entrance with the relocated garage. (Photo: James Prince)

5. Treat roofs with care.

Few features are as character-defining as the roof, and when a roof is compromised by an addition, the addition seldom looks right. Roof form, pitch, and eave/cornice lines are the critical parameters to watch. When the owners of a 1916 Arts & Crafts-influenced house in suburban Madison, New Jersey, began to think about additions, one of the design issues they had to wrestle with was the double-pitch roof.

“The original roof is distinctive,” notes architect Mark Alan Hewitt, “and having it look right when finished was critical.” Before addressing other concerns, Hewitt and his staff concentrated on carefully designing the geometry of the extended roof. Once the roof was worked out successfully, much of the rest of the project, particularly the massing of the rear addition, fell into place underneath it.

The house, purchased in the late 1990s, was not in good condition, plus there was no access from the back of the building. Hewitt addressed the rear access problem first by relocating the garage to the opposite side of the lot, thereby providing access to the rear of the house through the new autoport and terrace. The owners were also determined to retain the existing staircase inside the building while gaining more space for the kitchen and master bedroom.

“Circulation is always an issue,” according to Hewitt, “and one of our challenges was how to keep the staircase without overcomplicating the living room-dining room-kitchen arrangement.”  Part of the solution involved adding a windowed gallery in a former solid wall that allowed them to open up the stairway. Adds Hewitt, “My mantra has always been that, with care, it’s possible to design compatible additions without disrespecting the original house.”

Shady landscaping and awnings can help reduce solar gain and cut air-conditining bills.

Going green in an old house can be a bit of a challenge—it’s a delicate balance between new technology and historic features. Then there’s the fact that many green technologies require a substantial up-front investment. All in all, it can seem a daunting prospect. But greening your house doesn’t have to involve an entire retrofit. These 7 tips are simple to execute—and they’ll get you plenty of green bang for very few bucks.

1. Switch to CFLs

Compact fluorescent lightbulbs (CFLs) are one of the easiest ways to make a green impact—they burn just as brightly as regular incandescent bulbs while using a fraction of the energy. As technology has developed, CFLs have started to mimic the warm glow of incandescents more convincingly (bulbs with a temperature range of 2700-3000K will give off yellowish light), making it possible to get that trademark old-house warmth in an eco-friendly package.

Natural cleaning lines—like Mrs. Meyer's—will keep your kitchen spic & span without the harmful chemicals. (And they smell better, too!)

2. Tune up windows

Original windows are often vilified as the primary source of energy leakage in old houses, but making them more efficient is fairly easy with some well-deployed weatherstripping. (See this article for tips on installing weatherstripping and other DIY tuneups.) If weatherstripping windows is a bigger project than you want to tackle, consider installing storm windows to block drafts.

3. Clean green

You’ve probably noticed natural cleaning products taking up more shelf space lately in your local grocery store—brands like Seventh Generation, Method, and Mrs. Meyer’s have gone mainstream, promising squeaky-clean surfaces without harsh chemicals. (Even Clorox has gotten in on the action with its Green Works line.) Don’t want to shell out the bucks for natural cleaning products? Household items like vinegar and baking soda can work as cleaning agents, too.

4. Transform your toilet

The newest toilets on the market use just 1.6 gallons of water per flush—a huge savings over toilets of the 1950s and earlier, which consumed a whopping 7 gallons per flush. But if you’ve got a great vintage commode in your period bathroom, there’s no need to sacrifice style in the name of eco-friendliness. Retrofitting the tank with an early closure flapper will shut off the water before it fills the entire tank, saving up to 50 percent per flush.

New faucets—like the Hatteras from American Standard's JADO line—often come with built-in aerators to control water consumption, but it's easy to retrofit an old faucet, too.

5. Air out your faucet

By the same token, there’s no need to invest in fancy new low-flow faucets (many of which are probably too sleek for period kitchens and baths anyway). An aerator, screwed onto the end of an existing faucet, will help reduce water flow (to as little as 0.5 gallons per minute) while keeping pressure up by mixing air into the water stream.

6. Help your hot water heater

If you’re not ready to trade out your old hot-water heater for a new tankless model, there are still steps you can take to make it more efficient. Start by checking the thermostat—a maximum temperature of 120 degrees should be enough to get you by comfortably. You can also insulate an electric hot-water tank with a pre-cut jacket or blanket (be careful not to cover the thermostat), which mitigate heat loss by 25 to 45 percent. (Note: Insulating gas-fueled hot-water tanks is trickier; you may want to get a professional to do this.)

7. Get some shade

Minimizing solar heat gain is key to giving your air conditioning a break in the summer. On sunny eastern and southern exposures, you can use blinds, curtains, or awnings to block the sun and keep your house cool. For an even more eco-friendly fix, consider planting a deciduous tree outside a sunny window, which will shade it in the summer but let light (and heat) through in the winter.