Send me a FREE trial issue Plus a FREE gift
Old-House Online » Old-House Tips, Restoration Stories, & More » Repairs & How To » Restoration Projects » Repairing & Refinishing Wood Floors

Repairing & Refinishing Wood Floors

How to determine whether to preserve, refinish, or replace vintage wood floors. By Dan Cooper

    Interior designer Robert Currie specified restoration, not replacement, for an old wood floor in this elegant Shingle Style house in New England. (Photo: Brian Vanden Brink)

    You’ve painted the ceiling and papered the walls. The woodwork gleams, the lighting fixtures shine . . . now, with everything else done, the floors look dirty.

    Although it’s true that few things spruce up a room like a freshly sanded and varnished floor (or a new floor), there are several arguments to be made for not refinishing, at least without forethought. Aside from the expense and the dust—and you have no idea what it’s like until you’ve lived through a floor sanding—you may find the floor has fewer lives than you expected.

    Sander, Spare Thy Drum (Belt)

    Most wood floors (from the mid-19th century onwards) are connected via interlocking edges called tongue and groove, a laying method that minimizes gaps and keeps the faces of the floorboards from cupping. The upper and lower tabs are about 1/4” thick, and can withstand only two or three sandings before they start splintering, ruining the appearance of the floor. If your floor has already been sanded once or twice in its history, especially by someone a bit too enthusiastic with the sander, you will need to take great care to preserve the floor as you refinish it.

    Reclaimed heart pine flooring from Carlisle Wide Plank Floors

    That’s true, too, with oak carpet, an alternative to tongue-and-groove popular from about 1880 to 1920. This is a hardwood veneer applied over lower-grade pine flooring (originally meant to be carpeted). The strips of flooring tend to be quite narrow (typically 1 ¼ to 1 ½ inches wide). They are face-nailed, meaning they are not tongue and groove, but simply tacked down with finish nails into the joists. Nail holes that appear uniformly every 16” indicate oak carpet. This finish flooring was milled at just ½” thick, so once again, it can handle only a couple of sandings.

    Is there an alternative to sanding that lets you restore the floor? Sometimes, rather than sanding off the old finish and with it some of the floor surface, an otherwise-sound wood floor can be lightly abraded—scratch-sanded or screened—to permit application of a compatible finish. You’ll get a floor that’s not bad and certainly better and more protected than before.

    Wear and Tear

    If there’s limited damage to one area of an otherwise good floor, judicious patching can save it. Too much, of course, results in a patchwork effect—and it will test the skill of the carpenter trying to match new wood to old. Sound old wood can be moved to prominent areas, and the patches done in dark corners or under rugs and furniture. Matching wood can be salvaged from closet or attic. Whether you will be happy with a patched floor depends on your “compulsive meter.” If you must have perfection (and frankly, if you must, you shouldn’t be living in an old house), a patched and refinished floor may bother you.

    Remilled chestnut flooring, popular in some regions and no longer available as new growth (Photo: Chestnut Specialists)

    Finishing Up

    If a floor is scratch-sanded or screened (not entirely stripped of its old finish), then you must use a compatible finish for reapplication. Most likely this will be an oil-based varnish or oil-based polyurethane. New wood may be sealed with a water-based finish or penetrating oil, or time-honored shellac in non-wet rooms. Every finish has its own attributes regarding shine, longevity, and abrasion-resistance.

    The Newly Floored

    Sometimes you have to start fresh. Maybe there’s rot, all-over splintering, too many patches, huge gaps, or urine stains. Maybe there was never a finish floor in the first place. Owners of pre-1850 houses who prefer the informal appearance of wide pine often choose reclaimed lumber. It is considered “greener” because it doesn’t involve newly felled old-growth trees; it may be less expensive; it has character to match the truly old house, due to markings made by previous joinery, nails, and wear. Victorian and later homes usually are better suited to hardwoods. Remember that hardwoods may have been used in public rooms, softwood upstairs, and “deal” (usually, butt-jointed wide boards of soft pine or fir) in back halls and attics.

    View all Flooring in the Products & Services Directory.

    Published in: Old-House Interiors September/October 2010


    Catherine Seiberling Pond July 30, 2010 at 1:58 pm

    Congrats! Will all articles be posted on-line in the future (and from past issues)? Great feature to have for OHI.

    Old-House Online August 3, 2010 at 10:25 am

    We post 1 or 2 articles from the current issue of OHI each week for a total of between 6 and 10 articles from each issue. We hold some articles back–there has to be some benefits to buying the magazine–but we do take requests via Facebook, Twitter, or our contact page. Especially from bloggers (hint hint!).

    Catherine Brooks November 28, 2011 at 5:49 pm

    If your floors are painted instead of varnished, they likely have old, lead-based paint. Removing this type of paint requires special safety methods to contain the paint waste, whether it is chips, dust, goo, or soft paint. If you want a simple tool that doesn’t generate dust which has to be captured thoroughly, try the eco-strip Speedheater.

    Kathy January 15, 2012 at 8:28 pm

    I have just purchased a house built in the 1950′s. It has had carpet on it for a long time (carpet really dated). The pad just crumbled when we took it off. The floors look pretty good though, but the floor is rough. It seems like it is down to the grain in the wood. Should I lightly sand it or buff it before I put a finish on it?

    Libby October 15, 2012 at 6:32 pm

    Removed wall-to-wall carpet to discover the wood floors had been painted a dark red.
    House built 1930
    What are the options for removing the paint?

    Get your FREE Trial Issue of Old House Journal and 2 FREE gifts.
    Yes! Please send me a FREE trial issue of Old House Journal and 2 FREE gifts.
    If I like it and decide to continue, I'll get 7 more issues (8 in all) for just $24.95, a savings of 48%. If for any reason I decide not to continue,
    I'll write cancel on the invoice and owe nothing. The Free Trial Issue is mine to keep, no matter what.
     Full Name:
     Address 1:
     Address 2:
     Zip Code:
     Email (req):
    Offer valid in US only.
    Click here for Canada or here for international subscriptions

    Products & ServicesHouse ToursHistoric PlacesHouse StylesOldHouseOnline.comMagazine
    Architectual ElementsKitchen & BathsHistoric HotelsArchitectural TermsRepairs & How ToSubscribe to Old-House Journal
    BathsInterior & DécorHistoric NeighborhoodsAmerican FoursquareFree NewslettersBack Issues
    Ceilings & WallsGardens & ExteriorsHouse MuseumsBungalowSubscribe to Arts & Crafts HomesDigital Editions
    Doors & WindowsColonial RevivalOld House CommunityAdvertise
    Exterior Products & LandscapeGothicAbout Us 
    FlooringQueen AnneContact Us 
    FurnitureVictorianPrivacy Policy
    HardwareLand for Sale
    Heating & CoolingSite Map
    Home Décor
    Period Lighting
    Real Estate
    Repair & Restoration
    Roofing & Siding
    Tools & Equipment

    Designer Sourcw e bookHistoric Home Show Logo

    Copyright © 2011-2017 Old House Online