Send me a FREE trial issue Plus a FREE gift
Old-House Online » Old-House Tips, Restoration Stories, & More » Repairs & How To » Simple Wood-Floor Fixes

Simple Wood-Floor Fixes

Two traditional fixes for damaged and worn wood floors can add years to their lifespan. Story and photos by Ray Tschoepe

    A 1918 bungalow in Mount Ranier, Maryland, displays beautiful, original tongue-in-groove pine floors that had been covered for decades by vinyl tiles—then subsequent layers of plywood, vinyl tiles, and carpeting—until they were refinished and restored in 2003.

    A 1918 bungalow in Mount Ranier, Maryland, displays beautiful, original tongue-in-groove pine floors that had been covered for decades by vinyl tiles—then subsequent layers of plywood, vinyl tiles, and carpeting—until they were refinished and restored in 2003. (Photo: Courtesy of City Lights Realty)

    In a world of laminates, composites, and wood choices like “Brazilian cherry,” modern flooring appears to be a disposable feature. But owners of historic homes know better. While our floors sometimes get chipped, splintered, and worn, they were made to last. And given that they’ve survived a century or more, we feel a special responsibility to preserve them for as long as possible. When original floors show problems from years of wear, knowing how to replace damaged floorboards or splice in a Dutchman patch is crucial to lengthening their lifespan.

    Most damage to traditional wooden floors is a direct result of wear and tear (including pets, stains, heavy furniture, termites, or fungal decay), but some comes from misguided maintenance. New owners of an older home often think the best way to spiff up their worn and stained floors is to sand and refinish them, but often, in order to achieve the desired like-new results, they remove too much flooring material. This can leave the upper edge of the groove in tongue-and-groove floors dangerously thin—so thin that breakage is common. When this happens, the original board needs to be replaced or repaired.

    Replace a Floorboard

    Replacing a floorboard is a fairly straightforward job, and the process is the same whether working on interior floors or outdoor porches. Start by delineating the damaged material and marking it with a piece of chalk. Make sure you allow enough space beyond the damage to reach sound wood, particularly if the damage stems from termites or fungus. Test the wood by poking it with an awl; if it easily penetrates, the wood needs to be replaced.

    To replace a damaged floorboard, start by marking off the damaged material, then cutting it directly over the floor joist using an oscillating saw. You can then remove the damaged board.


    The simplest way to make these repairs is to cut the floorboard directly over the floor joist or just to the side of the joist (which will provide ample room for nailing the new board), so the next step is to locate the floor joist. If your floor is exposed from below, this is as simple as going into the basement or under the porch and measuring the spacing. You also can drill a small hole beside the joist and up through the flooring, where it will be visible from the finished side. If neither of these techniques is possible, look across the floor and note the seams between the ends of other boards; measuring one seam to the next will give you a good idea of the spacing between joists, which will be uniform except in very old houses (dating to the 17th and early 18th centuries). Measure the distance between joists, and transfer that measurement to the boards that need replacing. If the flooring has separated so that there are gaps between the floorboards, you also can slide a thin piece of metal through the gap until it hits a joist. Draw a line across the board at the floor joists at a right angle to the groove.

    Next, cut across the individual board along the line [A]. You can use a very sharp chisel to cut across the grain, or use a drill to make a series of holes across the board and then finish the cut with chisels, a circular saw, or specialized hand saw. I like to use oscillating-blade saws (Fein, Bosch, Dremel, etc.) because they are a safe and effective way to sever flooring, particularly when removing just one board.

    With the board removed, prepare a small block (2x3 or 2x4), which you’ll fish through the opening and secure to the end of the joist with glue and nails.Once secured, the block provides a solid nailing surface for the new floorboard.


    When cutting directly over the center of the floor joist, expect to encounter nails from the original installation. To avoid damaging your tools, cut the floorboard at the edge of the joist. (Oscillating saws are the exception—they can be outfitted with a blade that cuts both wood and metal, making cutting directly over the joist possible.) After you remove the board, nail and glue a small piece of wood (2×3 or 2×4) to the side of the joist  [B] to create a new nailing surface for the board you’re about to install.

    Removing a floorboard joined by tongue-and-groove or shiplap joints requires special attention. If you are able to insert a thin blade—such as that from a reciprocating saw (Sawzall), an oscillating saw, or a thin kerf blade in a circular saw—between the floorboards, cut the board along the tongue side [C], which removes the tongue. If you set your circular saw to a depth just 1⁄16″ deeper than the flooring, you can make this cut without seriously damaging the joist.

    An oscillating saw cuts through the tongue of an in-place board.


    If the gap between your floorboards is too narrow to insert a blade without damaging surrounding boards, use your circular saw to plunge cut two parallel cuts through the center of the board. Then, use a drill or a sharp chisel to connect these parallel cuts so you can remove the center of the board. With the board’s center removed, you’ll be able to easily pry both remaining edges away from the surrounding material. If your damaged piece extends over several joists, expect some resistance on the tongue side since it will likely be blind-nailed (i.e. nailed through the tongue and covered by the adjoining board).

    After cutting, remove damaged boards by attaching a screw and using a pry bar to gently lift them—a piece of wood beneath the bar helps avoid damaging neighboring boards.


    Once the end cuts have been made and the tongue is removed, it’s time to pry up the floorboard [D]. To keep from damaging the end of your good flooring, try turning a screw into the board you plan to remove, and pry up on the head with a pry bar (place a block of wood between the bar and the floor to protect it).

    Next, it’s time to cut the new replacement piece to length. To install a single piece of flooring into a tongue-and-groove floor, you’ll need to remove the lower portion of one of the grooves. This is most easily removed with a table saw or a router, but it also can be removed with a chisel and a plane. This allows your new board to be installed tongue-side first, and close like a hatch into the groove side.

    Removing the replacement board’s  bottom groove lets it drop easily into place.


    Tap the new board into place [E]; if it seems too tight, it can be judiciously planed to fit along the groove side. Fastening a single board usually requires face-nailing, but you can countersink the nail head and fill the hole with wood putty to match the finished floor. When replacing multiple boards, blind-nail them through the tongue wherever possible.

    Create a Dutchman Patch

    In rooms with well-worn floors, gaps often appear between individual boards, mainly caused by repeated weather-related expansion and contraction cycles. When joints separate on tongue-and-groove boards, the upper edge of the groove is vulnerable to splitting, which can expose the tongue of the adjacent board.

    Mark the area to be removed


    Plane away the wood


    The easiest way to repair this kind of fracture is by replacing the upper half of the broken groove with a Dutchman patch. Mark the ends of the fractured area, then measure 11⁄4″ further and mark this measurement across the width of the board [F].

    Next, use a router and/or a sharp chisel to carefully pare away wood within the scribed lines to the depth of the original groove [G]. Work slowly, checking the depth every few passes.

    You’ll need a piece of closely matched wood to finish the repair. Carefully choose wood of the same species and grain pattern as the piece that was removed. You can sometimes take a piece of matching wood from original flooring in an out-of-sight area like an attic, crawl space, or closet. Cut the new board to fit, leaving it a little higher than the neighboring surface.

    Install a new piece that's cut to match


    Once you have a good fit, carefully tape the top to the edges of the new wood and the surrounding material (to protect from glue squeeze out), and apply epoxy to the mating (flat) surfaces. Drop the board into position [H], and rest something heavy on it to keep it from shifting. Any glue squeeze-out will be removed with the tape.

    After the glue has fully cured (follow manufacturer’s recommendations for curing), remove the tape and carefully plane the new piece to match the neighboring surfaces. Finish up with sandpaper to soften any rough edges, then paint or stain and apply a clear finish to match the original floor.

    Ray Tschoepe, one of OHJ’s contributing editors, is the director of conservation at the Fairmount Park Historic Preservation Trust in Philadelphia.

    Published in: Old-House Journal December/January 2011


    Pat July 30, 2011 at 5:49 pm

    Any suggestions to where I can get old flooring to fill in a strip where we are removing an existing wall? I have a 1901 house in RI, with old hardwoods with lots of “character”. In the past, when we removed radiators, we were able to match floorboards at a former building reclaimation center in Prov. which no longer exists. Our floor boards are about 3.5 ” wide, and the corners in all of the rooms are parcqued. I love these floors and do not want to cover or replace them. They are yellowish in tone, with some darkly contrasting grain.

    SRThomas December 21, 2012 at 1:19 pm

    I want to replace just a few damaged boards in the living room of our ranch style 1960s house. The living room, bedrooms and main hallway are nice oak tongue and groove floors. I want to remedy and repair the damage by carefully removing some good boards out of the back of the spare room closet floor, which are in perfect condition and that removal is very easily hidden from sight… But my husband says that closet floor salvage plan is a bad idea and thinks we should just recarpet the whole living room. Is this closet wood a decent solution or should I not try it? I’m pretty crafty and generally get good results with projects like this, but I’m kind of out of my zone with this kind of repair. I don’t want to cave in and re-carpet what is a 95% gorgeous living room…I admit the damaged boards are in prominent spots…just off entry way in front of wall we put TV…and a few spots along the main seating area of living room. It is tongue/groove style slats and a honey stained oak. It is likely we’d have to sand and refinish anyway since the honey colored finish was horribly applied and shows a lot of brush and pooling marks where it was not applied right. Still the wood has a nice grain which we’d like to salvage if possible.

    Pat January 14, 2015 at 11:46 am

    We recently put an addition on our home and over a period of about 2weeks, we heard lots of loud popping sounds…long story short, it appears that where the old room and new addition meet, the floor is pulling away. Can you tell me how to correct this and is this going to be a problem for the ceiling to start cracking as well?
    Thank you!

    Margaret Anteblian June 3, 2015 at 10:35 am

    My 1874 Back Bay brownstone has wood floors that have very narrow and thin boards. Leaks from the roof this past winter caused the boards to warp. I planned to patch the warped section and then sand and refinish the entire room. The problem is how to find the right boards to replace the warped ones so that they match the rest of the boards. How do I find the boards to match?? Please let me know.

    Get your FREE Trial Issue of Old House Journal and 2 FREE gifts.
    Yes! Please send me a FREE trial issue of Old House Journal and 2 FREE gifts.
    If I like it and decide to continue, I'll get 7 more issues (8 in all) for just $24.95, a savings of 48%. If for any reason I decide not to continue,
    I'll write cancel on the invoice and owe nothing. The Free Trial Issue is mine to keep, no matter what.
     Full Name:
     Address 1:
     Address 2:
     Zip Code:
     Email (req):
    Offer valid in US only.
    Click here for Canada or here for international subscriptions

    Products & ServicesHouse ToursHistoric PlacesHouse StylesOldHouseOnline.comMagazine
    Architectual ElementsKitchen & BathsHistoric HotelsArchitectural TermsRepairs & How ToSubscribe to Old-House Journal
    BathsInterior & DécorHistoric NeighborhoodsAmerican FoursquareFree NewslettersBack Issues
    Ceilings & WallsGardens & ExteriorsHouse MuseumsBungalowSubscribe to Arts & Crafts HomesDigital Editions
    Doors & WindowsColonial RevivalOld House CommunityAdvertise
    Exterior Products & LandscapeGothicAbout Us 
    FlooringQueen AnneContact Us 
    FurnitureVictorianPrivacy Policy
    HardwareLand for Sale
    Heating & CoolingSite Map
    Home Décor
    Period Lighting
    Real Estate
    Repair & Restoration
    Roofing & Siding
    Tools & Equipment

    Designer Sourcw e bookHistoric Home Show Logo

    Copyright © 2011-2017 Old House Online